Queensland: sail, snorkel, sleep, repeat

Cairns, here I was again – 2 months after my first stay – yet the city had a completely different feel to it this time. Walking through the streets the average age seemed to have risen by 20 years (pensioners trying to escape the colder south, maybe?) and all in all I could not shake off a feeling of “This party is over”. The rainy weather and my hostel choice did not help, either – the Cairns Girls Hostel – a rather gloomy place strangely popular with women 50+. Its only outstanding features were reliable Wifi (I was actually able to do some Skype job interviews from here that went surprisingly smooth – from a connectivity perspective) and very, very clean kitchens. First time I ever experienced backpackers sticking to the 4-step rule: use it, wash it, dry it, put it away. Why did I not check in at the Traveller’s Oasis again?! Well, after my raving reviews, they were completely booked out… seemingly FOREVER.

Cairns served as my starting point to travel south. I boarded the greyhound bus from the greyhoundReef Fleet Terminal in the early morning (my first greyhound journey on this trip!), made myself comfortable, absorbed the last impressions of Cairns and finally watched the landscape flooded with sunlight pass by once we had left the city. Australia has so many shades of green! An overwhelming feeling of “THIS is exactly what I love about traveling” came over me. A fuzzy feeling of anticipation mixed with ‘the journey is the reward’ wisdom. I enjoyed it as long as I could, knowing it would subside when my butt and legs eventually became numb from sitting too long.

base5 hours later we arrived in Townsville and I directly hopped onto the ferry to Magnetic Island – the greyhound conveniently stops right at the ferry terminal. I had booked a somewhat cheap package with 2 nights in the Base hostel right at the beach in Nelly Bay. Literally ALL the backpackers on the ferry went to Base – so consequently, this turned out to be my first encounter with a real party hostel…..it had to happen eventually! Too bad I had decided to make this Queensland trip all about detox after all the partying in Sydney – so no alcohol for me. I simply enjoyed the views and went on a 7 hours hiking tour the next day – enjoying my own company – starting from Nelly Bay to Arcadia and Horseshoe Bay and from there to Radical and Florence Bay until I arrived at the “The Forts” bus stop.

Impressions from my hike:
nelly bay

hiking maggie

magnetic island

On the way back to Townsville I met another female solo traveller and we both took the greyhound bus further south to Airlie Beach, not exactly a route off the beaten track, by the way. More and more, despite my deep affection for Australia, I realized that it had become way too easy to travel here and that I needed more of a challenge – hence new plans for another trip around the world were already taking shape in my head. I just could not enjoy the easy life for too long! Where are the squat toilets without toilet paper, where’s the exciting uncertainty to get sick or not from brushing your teeth with tab water, where’s all the sweet struggle? I know I should be careful what I wish for  – given the fact that every single time I complained about something in a blog post, my experience changed completely until the next article, so let’s see what happens. 😉

airlie beach sunset 2The easy life continued in Airlie Beach, a neat, artificial town where I checked in to the Beaches hostel, an accommodation on the cheaper end of the scale. In the evening I was given the opportunity to experiment with slacklining for the first time in my life. A cool dude called Andy invited basically everyone over to try it out and I happily accepted. Later on I met up with my greyhound acquaintance Lisa again and we girls took advantage of the Beaches meal deal: 15$ main + drink (I promise I only drank one beer, and well, another beer… I still consider this detox compared to my debaucheries in wings2Sydney, haha!) while sharing travel stories.

On the next day, it was time for #thatboatlife to begin: 3 days, 2 nights on a catamaran “Wings 2” sailing around the Whitsunday Islands together with 22 other people and a crew of 3. Knowing about my tendency to get seasick, I stocked up on medicine – wise idea! We were assigned to our beds (I slept next to the kitchen in a converted seating area) and the adventure began. Lying on the deck with this sea breeze in your hair and summer tunes in your ear: suddenly life just made sense and all doubts about whatever disappear…. this is what life is supposed to be like!

sleeping on the boat

The title of this post suggests something different but we did not actually sail, at least not for the first two days. Instead, the captain used the engine. I just thought it sounds nicer as a headline. The snorkelling part is true, though. After having seen the Outer Great Barrier Reef at the height of Cairns, the snorkelling sites around the Whitsundays were not a life-changing experience, but still very nice. The water was significantly colder and I chose to wear a long wetsuit plus a shorty on top. After snorkelling, the boat life continued, including a great sunset and a really, really good dinner with a special dish for vegetarians.

wings2 deck

thatboatlife

thatboatlife_3

The following day, we got up early to visit Whitehaven, probably the most popular spot on the Whitsundays.

whitehaven_3

whitehaven_2

whitehaven

Some brave souls even jumped into the waves, just with their swimmers on. Later on we proceeded to the next snorkelling spot, still hoping to encounter whales, sharks and turtles…. but, not much luck!

The wind had picked up and the wind forecast for the day of the return to Airlie Beach was even nastier. I had looked forward to a few hours lying on the deck but the waves were so high and the wind so strong (30 knots) that we had to stay in the back of the boat, focussing the horizon in a desperate attempt not to get seasick. And: as long as I didn’t go under deck it worked for me. It was even a little bit of fun, standing there and getting splashes of water into my face repeatedly. Wet, exhausted, but happy we arrived back in Airlie Beach, now with the ground moving under our feet.

A relaxed evening run along the bay at sunset rounded of my stay in Airlie Beach.

airlie beach sunset

Tigerair took me back to Sydney the following day. My final 10 days in Australia had begun.

Fighting the settler mode

When you adjust your ‘current city’ on Facebook from Berlin to Sydney…

When you start having a favourite barista and this dude knows how to pronounce your German name correctly, knows that your default order is a large soy flat white and asks you about the job you applied for last week…

When the bus driver notices that you bought a new jacket…

When you know who takes their dogs out at what time in the neighbourhood….

When this bartender in the Barbershop gives you the “You again!?” look….

When the self-checkout at Coles with a basket full of fresh produce takes only seconds because you know with your eyes closed where all the buttons for red papaya, pink lady apples, broccoli, pears and eggplant are …

….well, when things like that happen, then you are not travelling anymore!! You’ve gotten comfortable wherever you are. You have entered the settler mode!

I cannot deny: being in this comfort zone feels very, very cozy. But: time flies by far too quickly when things become routine, so I realized I had to take countermeasures. Especially now that my Au Pair replacement arrived in Sydney and I am free again to do whatever I want.

So what’s the right dose of travelling adventure after switching from the world traveller to the settler mode?

For nostalgic reasons I answered this question with ‘a trip to the Blue Mountains with an option to stay overnight’.

Wait, nostalgic reasons? Why was that again?

Well, in early 2012, my solo travelling ‘career’ had begun in the Blue Mountains. And so BM sceneryhere I was again, 3 years later on a wonderful winter’s day with the bluest skies and the crispest air you can possibly imagine. This time around I had numerous recommendations up my sleeve from a Blue Mountains local (who had also introduced me to some hot shit in Sydney) ranging from where to sit on the Blue Mountains Train to enjoy the best views (upstairs on the left), which hikes to do (National Pass from Wentworth Falls), which bakeries to visit (Hominy bakery), what to eat (pies), where to have lunch (The red door in Leura) to where to see street art.

Seriously, who would have guessed that there’s a Street Art Walk in Katoomba?! Consider me impressed:

Street Art Walk_girl We like nothing

Street Art Walk_house Street Art Walk_boat

Street Art Walk_birds Street Art Walk_face

While hiking from the Three Sisters to the Leura Cascades, I started dedicating some thoughts to the question in which aspects I had evolved in the last 3 years of solo travelling… but then I just stopped thinking and enjoyed the moment.

Blue MountainsAfter arriving in Leura, I connected with my well-developed inner voice to find out what to do next. It said: “Eat a pie.” So, I ate a delicious veggie pie on a bench in the sun. And now? Going on another hike? My inner voice said “Heck, no. It’s getting cold!” and steered me towards the Leura station to catch a warm train back to Sydney instead of arranging an overnight stay. Back in the travelling mode, I booked a one-way flight to Queensland for the following week: Whitsunday Islands, here I come! Settler mode, subside! 🙂